First trip to India, January 2015

Day 43, February 20

Pokhara

First trip to India, January 2015

Itinerary

I’ve long noticed that in every long journey there inevitably comes a day when the journey starts to feel stale. You’re afraid to admit it to yourself, you try not to show it, but inside it’s as if someone has switched off the light and you keep making your way farther and farther through the dark.
At the beginning of a trip you are full of energy and strength, you are open to new impressions and sensations, you have waited and prepared for this journey for so long, and now you are finally in it. It fills you up, drop by drop, and with each new day you are filled with new impressions, new emotions, new experiences. But a day comes when all of this overflows, spills over the edge and…. as sad as it is to admit, stops bringing joy.
Or rather, you simply begin to live your ordinary Kyiv life while traveling. Strangely enough, travel, like work, like everything else, turns into routine… You move from city to city. You visit another temple, museum, etc. — but none of it resonates inside you… And all because your perception is already overloaded; it seems to have atrophied or grown tired…. You try to be happy, you reproach yourself for how can this be, it’s beautiful after all (interesting, etc.) — but no matter how you try to convince yourself, it’s hard to be dishonest with yourself… it’s hard to be happy by order. Joy is tricky like that. It either exists or it doesn’t. And it’s hard to do anything about it. That is, I don’t consider the absence of joy to be a problem. It would even be more correct to say that joy is present, just in a more hidden state. Not as obvious as at the beginning of the journey.
So, perhaps, over the past few dozen days we too have entered such a monotonous stretch in our journey. We settled in Kathmandu and didn’t really do anything.

It’s good that we managed to break away to Pokhara after all. It’s very beautiful here.
Today was a wonderful day; it seems routine stepped back for a little while.
In the morning it was sunny and warm. It was the warmest day of our entire trip through Nepal.
We walked around without fleeces, only in thermal underwear, and it wasn’t cold at all. The sky was clear, and a snowy sharp peak was visible. Above the nearest hill there were many paragliders hanging in the air.
Today breakfast was included at our hotel, for the first time on our trip through Nepal and the second time on our entire journey. They brought me an omelet, toast, and even muesli with hot milk. And Volchiy wanted a regular fried egg, which didn’t turn out very well there — so Volchiy ate the omelet, while I happily ate the muesli. Then we decided to move to another hotel and went to look at rooms there.

On the way we rented bicycles. At the first rental place the bikes were low, especially for Volchiy. They were also kind of beaten up. So we decided to keep looking and found slightly more expensive but good bikes.
The room in the other hotel pleased us; it had as many as three windows, it was large, on the 4th floor, and cheaper — so we decided to move. We went to get our things, checked out, checked in, and set off on a bicycle trip around the lake.

Day 43, February 20

As soon as we got a little away from the center of civilization, the road turned awful. There was practically no asphalt; instead of a road, there were huge cobblestones and clay. There were potholes in places, and sometimes we came across good stretches of asphalt, but quite rarely. It was difficult to ride on such a road. We moved slowly. But the beauty all around and cycling itself were very enjoyable despite the road. We rode unhurriedly, stopped, and admired the world around us. The road kept going slightly uphill, then downhill again. Overall, if the surface had been good, it would have been an absolute pleasure to ride. As it was, it was a little painful to keep bouncing over the potholes and rocks.

Day 43, February 20

Halfway there, we stopped for a snack at a café on the lakeshore. Not far away was a place where paragliders were landing. First they descended in a spiral, and then dove toward the ground. We warmed ourselves in the sun, drank tea with cookies, and watched the colorful paragliders.
Then we continued on our way. At first, we thought we would ride around the lake. But first of all, according to the map, the path on the other shore was interrupted, or rather it led sharply uphill to the Peace Stupa on the mountain. And secondly, we grew tired quite quickly from riding over such a rough surface — so soon we decided to turn back.

Along the way there are many little restaurants and water stalls. Ordinary Nepalis live here. A girl jumped out of a school bus, dressed in shoes, a skirt, a white shirt, with a backpack. It was so strange to watch her climbing up the path to her home among the vegetable gardens.

Day 43, February 20

A man was washing clothes in the lake, and his little son, with a bucket on his head, was dancing to the music. On the road, cows were bathing in puddles. And some were wandering about, comically stretching their heads forward.

Grandmother crossing the lake on a raft.

Grandmother crossing the lake on a raft.

Two Nepali children latched onto Volchy, asking for a ride on the bicycle. Volchy put one of them on the frame.
We rode back to Pokhara. Returned the bicycles. Even in the evening it was warm, warm. As if it were late spring in Kyiv.
In the evening we sat on our little balcony and drank tea.