Day 13: November 17

To get into the ancient city itself, you have to pass through very pushy souvenir sellers. They literally block the road, trying to sell their goods. I have never seen anything like this anywhere else.

We are not big fans of ancient cities. It seems to me that our scant knowledge of history does not allow us to fully appreciate them. I have tried many times to memorize all those eras and empires, but everything gets mixed up in my head into some kind of mush. Probably we need an engaging guide who could interest us.

As we slowly walk around Jerash, we think about this, about boredom, and about why we are here. We try to photograph a beautiful large lizard, but it deftly hides among the stones.

Volchiy finds a funny plant, “Squirting Cucumber.” The plant got its amusing name because when its fruits ripen, they explode, shooting out seeds with slime. It grows here among the stone slabs.

Volchiy is interested in the old crane. He climbs into it and photographs the instrument panel (and leaves his phone in the crane). Meanwhile, I find an old sample of a saw. A saw for cutting stones using a water wheel.

There are two theaters in Jerash. In the second theater, Volchy discovers that he left his phone in the faucet. While Volchy goes to get the phone, I wait for him on a warm stone. Evening is falling. We are tired. And Volchy starts getting work calls again, so we head toward the exit.

We drive to the supermarket, wanting to buy something for dinner. We buy a can of tuna and tortillas. It is already completely dark. Volchy suggests taking a short walk around Jerash; we want to find a vegetable shop. On the way, in a butcher shop, we see a camel carcass. Not a sight for me.

A begging boy comes up to us, asking for money. The boy is very persistent, grabbing my hands and clothes. I get scared and ignore him, and Volchy takes him by the hand, so the two of them walk together down the street. I’m frightened, while Volchy seems amused by the whole situation. The only question is how to get rid of the boy now. Volchy suggests going back to the supermarket, and that was a good idea. As soon as he spots the store, the boy breaks free and runs off. And we jump into the car and head back to the hotel.