Aït Benhaddou - Ouarzazate
Morocco, 2018
A kasbah is what a fortress is called in Morocco. In the morning, we drove to the kasbah in the village of Tamedakhte, just a couple of kilometers from the hotel where we were staying. We had barely parked the car when a “guide” appeared right away. Interestingly, even if you tell these intrusive “guides” directly that you don’t need a guide, they usually just nod in response — “ok, ok” — but still continue to follow you around. Of course, that’s annoying. Volchiy says that we should try to love all people. But I can’t manage it.
Kasbah in Tamedakhte
The kasbah in Tamedakhte is a complete disappointment. A small and worthless fortress. Of course, it also played a role that yesterday we visited a magnificent fortress, and I secretly hoped that here there would be something even remotely resembling yesterday’s beauty. But no.
Inside the Kasbah
After that, we went to one of the most famous sights in Morocco — the ksar of Ait Ben Haddou. A ksar is what fortified towns are called in Morocco. The village of the same name is tiny and consists mainly of hotels, restaurants, and souvenir shops. As usual, as soon as we parked the car, people appeared who wanted to invite us into their shop or show us the way to the ksar. As usual, we politely declined and headed toward the ksar — it can be seen perfectly from the road, standing there and taking up the whole hill.
I think the popularity of the ksar of Ait Ben Haddou is due to the fact that many films were shot here. I was surprised that admission was free. The ksar is a real little town, with narrow streets and dwellings that are now used as souvenir shops.
One of the alleys in the Ait Ben Haddou ksar
All the little streets lead uphill, to the ksar citadel at the very top of the hill. From there, there is a view of the village and the surrounding area.
There are a lot of tourists; they are brought here by the busload. To pass each other on the narrow streets, you have to wait for a stream of people to go by. For the first time in Morocco, I see so many tourists.
Citadel
View from the top of the hill over the village
After Ait Ben Haddou, we head to Ouarzazate. On the way, we make a small detour and stop at the gas station where the American film “The Hills Have Eyes” (2006) was shot. We hadn’t seen this film (it’s a horror movie), but it was very interesting to see the actual movie set. The gas station was built especially for the filming. It looks absolutely like a real gas station, just a little abandoned.
Gas station from the movie
I really liked it; it was so fun to be in a movie. The gas station still has a store where old American products remain untouched to this day — nuts, canned goods, mustard.
Old cars at the gas station. The stones on the truck are made of plastic
Horror movie set decorations
Shop at the gas station
Wolf behind an improvised bar counter
All of this is impressive, as if we had stepped into a time machine. (In the evening at the hotel, we managed to watch the beginning of the movie “The Hills Have Eyes” online in the lowest quality, because we were very curious to see what it all looks like in the film. Of course, the movie was not filmed only at this gas station, but it starts right here. It’s an amazing feeling to see in a film the place where you were just a couple of hours ago. And it’s also very funny that in the movie this place is the desert in America.)
On the way to Ouarzazate, we pass the Atlas film studio. It is considered the largest in the world by area. Today this place has become a popular tourist attraction, and for $10 anyone can enter the film studio grounds and look at the sets. While we were there, a small tourist bus arrived.
We decide not to go in. Through the fence, part of the sets is visible — an airplane and a sports car. I think visiting the film studio could be interesting if you go there with a good guide or at least after watching the films that were shot there.
Atlas Film Studio
In Ouarzazate, we have a real hotel, with a reception desk and the option to pay by credit card. The room is decent, though as usual there is very little light. But there is even a hairdryer. In the evening, we drive into the city center in search of a shop. We find a small “supermarket,” stock up on water and canned goods. We buy a very tasty mango and camembert.
