Chile 2023

Day 26: October 27

Punta Arenas - Rio Gallegos

Chile 2023

Itinerary

In the morning the sky was completely covered with heavy lead-colored clouds. It rained at times.

Today is a turning point. Until now we had been moving steadily south.
And today we began turning back, north.

We are traveling along the road called “Fin del Mundo,” “End of the World.”

We are traveling along the road called “Fin del Mundo,” “End of the World.”

Road sign “Beware of guanacos.” And there really are a lot of them here! They just run across the road like that.

Road sign “Beware of guanacos.” And there really are a lot of them here! They just run across the road like that.

We made a stop near the abandoned ranch “Estancia San Gregorio”.

The ranch was founded by the Spaniard José Menéndez in 1876 and became one of the largest producers of sheep wool.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Patagonia experienced a “boom” in sheep farms. So Menéndez’s farm prospered. There was money here, good conditions for workers, a school, a library, and a theater. It also had its own railway and pier.

However, by the middle of the 20th century, wool had lost its importance and its price had dropped sharply.

The farm became unprofitable and closed. And now it has fallen completely into disrepair.

The abandoned Estancia San Gregorio ranch

The abandoned Estancia San Gregorio ranch

Forge

Forge

Ranch houses on both sides of the road

Ranch houses on both sides of the road

We climbed into one of the houses. Transparent bags of wool are still lying here.

We climbed into one of the houses. Transparent bags of wool are still lying here.

Here, near the ranch, on the shore of Magellan Bay, are the remains of two ships.

The ships also belonged to José Menéndez; they were used to transport wool.

Only their “skeletons” remain, so much like giant human ribs…

Ship "Amadeo"

Ship "Amadeo"

Day 26: October 27
Serzhyk balances on a chain

Serzhyk balances on a chain

Serzhyk looks at the steam engine

Serzhyk looks at the steam engine

Day 26: October 27
The clipper "Ambassador" with a characteristic sharp-lined hull. Very beautifully shaped.

The clipper "Ambassador" with a characteristic sharp-lined hull. Very beautifully shaped.

We keep moving. A stone from a truck hit our windshield and chipped the edge of the glass.

Serzhyk is angry. Most likely, we’ll have to pay for a new windshield…

Life is very interesting.

We drove so many kilometers on a gravel road, and yet we “caught” a stone on a road with a good surface.

We need to finally accept the fact that no matter how hard you try, everything happens the way it happens.

There is so little we can control in this world.

Suddenly Serzhyk brakes hard, jumps out of the car, and runs somewhere. I notice where.

By some miracle, at speed, he spotted an armadillo — the very one we dreamed of seeing here!

Serzhyk is chasing the armadillo, and the armadillo is fleeing from Serzhyk

Serzhyk is chasing the armadillo, and the armadillo is fleeing from Serzhyk

This armadillo was behaving strangely. Maybe it had nowhere to hide.

This armadillo was behaving strangely. Maybe it had nowhere to hide.

At one point, it just froze and only sniffed the air. They have very poor eyesight. And a keen sense of smell.

At one point, it just froze and only sniffed the air. They have very poor eyesight. And a keen sense of smell.

It has a funny little snout, like a piglet’s. The armadillo is about 40 cm long.

It has a funny little snout, like a piglet’s. The armadillo is about 40 cm long.

Today we planned to cross the border and return to Argentina.

In Argentina, gasoline is very cheap (10 UAH/liter), while in Chile it is expensive (55 UAH/liter).

But we had to refuel in Chile.

We calculated how much gas we needed to get to the nearest gas station in Argentina.

We calculated it based on the average fuel consumption.

But we didn’t take the wind into account... Because of the strong wind, we were using almost twice as much fuel!

It barely lasted us (there are very, very, very few gas stations in this region).

Because of that, we didn’t stop on the way at Pali Aike National Park, since it would have added about 50 extra kilometers.
Then we definitely wouldn’t have had enough fuel.

We arrived at the border. There was a kilometer-long line here “in the open air.”

Strong wind with hail. I hid under a canopy, Serzhyk got completely soaked.

How long do we have to stand here? I heard someone say in Spanish something about five hours...

I panicked — we need to go to another crossing (which would ruin all our plans and is very far away).

For Serzhyk, it’s simple — we’ll wait in line.

After an hour, it cleared up a little. The rain stopped.

I calmed down. Standing here without rain is just a pleasure.

You start to appreciate the simplest things.

We’ve been standing here for an hour and a half already. The line was about three times longer. Inside the building, there are still loads of people. We’ve still got a long wait ahead of us.

We’ve been standing here for an hour and a half already. The line was about three times longer. Inside the building, there are still loads of people. We’ve still got a long wait ahead of us.

Serzhyk went to warm up in the car and drink tea (how nice it is to have a thermos!). He was completely frozen.

A couple of hours later, we finally entered the border service building.

Another hour — we stood in two lines and finally moved on.

On the Argentine side of the border, everything was faster; we also stood in two lines, but managed in about an hour.

Overall, crossing the border took about five hours.

I was struck by the positive attitude of the people in line.

No one cut in front of anyone, everyone stood calmly and waited. As if that’s how it should be.

We arrived in Rio Gallegos in the evening. We’re staying in a hotel here.

Our room

Our room

View from the window of the main square

View from the window of the main square

Serzhyk counts the money we exchanged at the exchange office (100 bills of 1,000 pesos each). He looked so much like a gangster from a movie. Exchanging dollars in Argentina really feels like something very illegal...

Serzhyk counts the money we exchanged at the exchange office (100 bills of 1,000 pesos each). He looked so much like a gangster from a movie. Exchanging dollars in Argentina really feels like something very illegal...

Waiting for the elevator

Waiting for the elevator

We went to dinner at the same restaurant (it turned out to be a restaurant chain) where we had been in El Calafate. They brought us bread with butter again, but it wasn’t as tasty as last time. We drank delicious IPA beer.

We went to dinner at the same restaurant (it turned out to be a restaurant chain) where we had been in El Calafate. They brought us bread with butter again, but it wasn’t as tasty as last time. We drank delicious IPA beer.

This time we ordered a vegetable skillet, but we still ate way too much, even without meat.

This time we ordered a vegetable skillet, but we still ate way too much, even without meat.

Our route for today (400 km) Punta Arenas → Rio Gallegos (overnight stay)

Our route for today (400 km) Punta Arenas → Rio Gallegos (overnight stay)